Italy Divide: Part 1

A red and grey 737 rises from the early morning mist at Leeds-Bradford Airport carrying the apprehension and dreams of three Italy Divide virgins. After all, the prospect of racing 1200 km of what could optimistically be described as ‘lumpy’ terrain up the backbone of Italy is enough to make even the most seasoned of racers a little nervous.

Cruising at 37000 ft over banks of cloud, my thoughts drifted and I saw familiar landscapes in the contours of the cloud below. Stanage Edge towering over the western Alps, Kinder lying over French shores. Meanwhile my imagination conjured up scenes from a route so far only glimpsed as a coloured line on a screen, snaking north though the heart of Italy.

Waiting in line the next morning under a dark Napolese archway, we‘re all trying to ignore the stench of stale urine at the chaotic bag drop. It’s nowhere near as chaotic as the Napolese traffic though. Roundabouts are a whirlpool of cars, cabs and scooters. Jumping in looks like a bad idea but Mitch, Virginia and myself all need to get across town. Once immersed in the maelstrom, my senses are overloaded, a cacophany of horns, revving engines and music from open car windows. I vie with scooters to make it through unlikely looking gaps. It’s like going back to my motorbike despatch riding days but unlike UK traffic, nobody is harbouring a grudge and everyone seems to have 360 degree vision, give a little, take a little, easy. 

Day 1

2pm and we're relieved to finally be setting off on our Italian odyssey. Once clear of the city centre the pace picks up and packs of riders power their laden machines north through its industrial hinterland. I giggle to myself as I pass a sign for a ‘Sexy Disco’, that must be quite the place to be on a Friday night. The pace is good and 40k is done in no time, I drop on to my aero bars as we near the coast again, lapping up the heavy scent of rapeseed from the fields we pass.

As dusk falls I divert from the main road onto an ancient Roman road, the huge granite setts make slow progress but at least I’m heading in the right direction - apparently all roads lead to Rome. At 10pm I reach the first hike-a-bike section, 3km takes more than an hour of clambering round bushes and scrabbling for a footing on slippery limestone. All the while I can see cars cruising along a perfectly good road 200m away at the base of the hill. It seems a little early for a #bemoremike section. By 0015 I’m ready for some sleep, I fall asleep to a chorus of cicadas and dogs barking.

Stats: 128 miles 6700 ft 

Day 2

0430, the day starts with a natty little 25% climb up through a hill top abbey. This won't be the last time I engage my granny gear.

The track dives back down to the valley but I find the riverside path blocked by a belligerent farmer. It’s a little early for this kind of nonsense, sliding down a 3m slope into a ditch to scrabble back up the other side dragging my bike. Other racers emerge from their slumbers under bushes and behind walls as I pass. We’re all finding our rhythm on this adventure.

I cruise past fishing ponds amidst meadows of buttercups spotting bike-packing veteran Mike Sheldrake as I navigate a particularly vague section of trail.

Three old fellas look on with amusement as I refill my hip pack, wash, and insert contact lenses at a water fountain in the square of the next town. I explain that I am riding from ‘Napoli per Lago di Garda’ which amuses them. 

I’m keen to reach Rome within 24 hours of the start so I’m soon chewing bar tape once again on a steep climb in the woods north of the last town. Fortunately the trails around Lago Albano make up for the climbs with some grin inducing bermed single track. 

I can sense Rome is close and drop onto my aero bars for a slightly wobbly 30mph along a cobbled road which leads to the Via Appia, 20 km of straight as a die Roman Road to the centre of Rome. I could have stepped back in time 1000 years as I cruise down the tree lined avenue towards the centre of Rome. Weather beaten Roman buildings sit to each side of the avenue, eroded as they are, the engineering within their design is impressive. Meter cubed quoins connect multiple courses of faded weather beaten brick.

 

Up a short rise and I'm suddenly in the centre of Rome facing the colosseum, I’m in a scene from a post card! I share a meal with Stu Taylor and a couple of French guys whilst rain falls outside. Stu buys a poncho from a street vendor, it comes in handy as the afternoon is wet. Riding on I reach the first long 20% ramps of the event. Seemingly it was unnecessary to go round the hills in this area, the roads go straight up and over regardless of gradient. 250m of pain to face down. 

sunset

The Italy Divide route is split into 17 GPX files and I will soon be nearing the end of this one, there’s 5k to go, I’m sure that I'll be done in no time on these fast gravel roads. Twilight draws the curtains on a beautiful sunset as I am still ankle deep in mud somewhere deep inside a dense woodland. I wrestle my loaded bike through fallen trees and over a small river all the while wondering what I’ve got into. More than an hour has elapsed by the time I emerge hungry and thirsty into the dewy starlit night. 

That night I find a cave for my bivvy by the roadside, it's dry and sheltered; sleep beckons.

Stats:130 miles, 11000 ft